get to know London

London's Greatest Hits (if you ask me)

9:56 AM

I have been asked for a few tips and tricks for London sightseeing! It's my favourite topic and I had so much to say that it may take a few posts to share what I know but this lists the greatest hits that we plan for our visitors.

For how to get around from airports and getting a visitor Oyster card see THIS post

Best of London tour

Here's the MAP!
Buckingham Palace to Westminster Square, St Paul's, Borough Market, Sky Garden at 20 Fenchurch Street aka Walkie Talkie, Leadenhall Market (I've tagged a couple of places if you want to hit a Harry Potter spot because, hey, you're in England!)
Start at Green Park - the link is to some of the interesting bits you can check out while you're there. OR just walk straight through to Buckingham Palace!

Buckingham Palace is massive, 775 rooms...no biggie.
Changing of the Guard is cool but NOT a thing that you need dedicate time to see. This is because even though in the summer, the guard changes daily (as opposed to winter when it is every other day) you have to show up 1-2 hours before the ceremony to have a decent view of the courtyard.
The Old Guard forms up in Friary Court at 11:00am for inspection and begin walking down the Mall at 11:15am. 11:30 begins the music, drums and march about.
*Interesting to note*When the Queen is in residence, the guard carries her colours: crimson. At other times the guard carries the regimental colors: the Union Flag.

My advice is: if you catch the guard marching down the Mall or away from the Palace, it's just as good as/better then being mushed up against the gate for a few hours.

With Buckingham Palace at your back, walk down the Mall to Admiralty Arch.
You'll see St James Palace and Park on your left and right as you make your way down the Mall.
Admiralty Arch 

Walk straight through Admiralty Arch and you will be in the center of Trafalgar Square!
The Nelson Monument, National Gallery, National Portrait Gallery and St Martin-in-Fields are located here.

If your heart is set on museum visits, this would be a great time to pop in to see the art. These galleries are both FREE with a suggested donation so you can feel ok just walking for a few minutes to half an hour rather than spending the whole morning/afternoon getting your money's worth.

This is the view from the steps of the National Gallery. Head down to Westminster from here to check out the Elizabeth Tower and Palace of Westminster!


As you walk down Whitehall to Westminster Square, you'll pass the Horseguard Parade and 10 Downing Street. This is from the west side of the Horseguard Parade.

Westminster Square. Parliament building which was once a royal residence called the Palace of Westminster. The audio tour can be any length you choose though it can be a couple of hours inside. If you take a guided tour, you should know that it will be a solid 2 hours (or more if your guide is chatty) and there is no sitting allowed. It gets rough toward the end but a fascinating building and can be worth it if you have the endurance.

Some things to know: Big Ben is the largest bell inside of the Elizabeth Tower, not the name of the tower itself. Common misunderstanding. The Tower was once called St Stephen's Tower.

All around the square are statues of historical influential leaders. Gandhi, President Lincoln, Winston Churchill, Nelson Mandela to name a few.

Westminster Abbey is neat and notable for its royal history but I would recommend you spend the money and time to explore St Paul's Cathedral. It's a personal favorite for absolutely amazing architecture and overall experience! 

Walk to the River Thames (pronounce like "tims")
The London Eye, London Aquarium and London County Hall.

If you buy tickets to the London Eye, it is worth getting the flash tickets. We got them and literally walked right on. Time is money so it was nice to not have to wait 45+ minutes in the queue.

Depending on the size of your travel party or time crunch, taking an über from Westminster Square to St Paul's Cathedral is recommended here. It's £6-9 trip depending on traffic.

OR you can use my favorite transit app to get around London, CityMapper. Get on the bus or tube. Even though the Underground can be faster or direct (sometimes) I highly recommend staying above ground so you can see as much as possible!

Bus to St. Paul's - price of entrance includes a great audio guide. Brave the many spiral stairs to the dome for an great view of the City!

From the dome at St Paul's.

Cross Millennium Bridge to the South Bank.

Continuing east you will see Shakespeare's Globe, Tate Modern, the Bankside shopping.

Mostly, the walk is taking you straight to LUNCH!





Even though it is crowded this is the most central place for almost any kind of food. French, Caribbean, Italian, Greek, Indian, Vegetarian, and more.
(east toward London and Tower Bridges, can't miss them)

You will see the iconic London skyline when you make your way back to the River Thames. The towering skyscraper is the Shard, tallest building in Western Europe.




If your feet aren't killing you yet, walk across the Tower Bridge (or London Bridge is closer) to the north bank.


The Tower of London is an excellent site to explore if you have a few hours to dedicate to it. Honestly if you want to see it, dedicate a half day to it. Grab some fish and chips before or after.

There is a stop here for the Thames River Cruise if you get a chance to get on that!

Sky Garden at 20 Fenchurch Street
London's best kept secret! It's FREE to get a ticket to the viewing platform. It's a view from the north bank unlike anything else. You will have to get tickets in advance. Reserving tickets is easy BUT only released two-three weeks in advance. Check at least TWO weeks before your trip to make sure you can get your pick of available times. Sky Garden recently updated their booking website so it is much easier to use!

Love that view.

Leadenhall Market is just down the street from the Sky Garden. The shops are pretty chain-y but I include it because it's where bits of the Diagon Alley in Harry Potter was filmed!


This map is for getting a few more places in on this one day around the city.
Head to Bank or Monument station to go see two great train stations: Kings Cross (Harry Potter alert!) and St Pancras. They are both beautiful. St Pancras Renaissance Hotel does a beautiful and tasty afternoon tea. More on afternoon teas later...

Jump back on the tube to Baker Street, the fictional home of Sherlock Holmes and Dr John Watson.
What you really need to see here is Regent's Park!
Take a nice stroll through the Rose Garden in early summer to enjoy the thousands of fragrant roses or paddle boat in the lake.


Jubilee Gate
Regent's Park

Grab a bike and pedal along the canal on the north end of the park to a lively night market called Camden Lock Market for food, crafts, jewelry and more.
 Or go a bit further north of the canal and the London Zoo to Primrose Hill. The hill itself gives you the elevation to see the city skyline while walking around the hill will take you through some of the most expensive properties in London.
(A tiny garden area in Primrose Hill, with no permits to build on it, was sold for £250,000 last year...no joke)

You can't miss the market, day or night. It's a vibrant area of London and one of the few markets that are open later than 5pm. 

There's a whole post just about getting around and some more suggestions on what to do for afternoon tea :)

(PS please look up anything I mention here and feel free to ask questions in the comments!) 

Maltby Street Market

10:18 PM

TimeOut Magazine (handed out free every Tuesday morning at most major TFL stations) did a special story on the best markets in London. I knew the list very well with the exception of ONE. Maltby Street Market has been on my list to visit for a while so the TimeOut list plus slightly warmer weather pushed us out the door for a food market lunch. 

There were too many appealing choices so we chose two to share and will be back soon to try more!

Crab Mac and Cheese.
We really liked this. After we weren't so ravenous from smelling all the amazing smells on empty stomachs, we were pretty annoyed that this comes as a mac and cheese sandwich. It cut down on the crab and Mac and Cheese we could consume!

Argentine beef in an Argentine BBQ? Sign us up EVERY TIME.

Steak and chips with chimichurri sauce. It was perfect.

To top it off, we headed over to the Druid Street Market which is around the corner for a Blutop ice cream sandwich.
Vanilla bean ice cream sandwiched between a brown sugar chocolate chunk cookie and a cinnamon snickerdoodle. YUM!

Kenwood House

11:51 PM

A hidden gem of English Heritage sites, Kenwood House sits on the norther border of Hampstead Heath. And it's free to access the house and gardens! (a £5 donation is encouraged, of course)

It was probably first built in the early 17th century. After changing hands several times, the 1st Earl of Mansfield, William Murray purchased Kenwood for £4,000 and in 1764 to 1779 it was transformed into a neoclassical villa for the 1st Earl of Mansfield.

The last owner, Edward Cecil Guinness, 1st Earl of Iveagh. The Iveagh Bequest Act of 1929 stipulated that Kenwood should be open free of charge to the public with the 'mansion and its contents ... preserved as a fine example of the artistic home of a gentleman of the eighteenth century'.
Thanks, buddy!

There are paths weaving through the 112 acres of parkland. It is set apart from Hampstead Heath park by this fence, separating the natural heathland from the designed landscape of Kenwood.

I first saw Kenwood House in the film, Notting Hill. You know at the end when Julia Roberts character is filming a Henry James novel and Hugh Grant visits? This is that house.






Each room has an array of beautifully framed masterpieces, from Rembrandt to Turner.

I'm always drawn to the renderings of Venice but I took this photo to share the lush walls! The patterns are 3-dimensional velvet opulence. I had to touch it just to be sure :)

While the whole house is lovely, the library really took my breath away!
The gorgeous interior was created by an 18th-century Scottish architect called Robert Adam. He extended the house and designed many of the rooms.

The pink and blue were the original colors though this was brightened in 2013.


I can't find the proof but I am 98% sure that the mirror above the fireplace was designed for short people. I was standing directly in front of the fireplace (obviously) and while I could see myself while standing in the mirror, I disappeared in the photo....wha??? The sorcery!

All the benches are donated/dedicated to someone who loved to be in this park.

I love finding views of our beloved city.
(From left to right: Gherkin, Cheesegrater, The Shard, then way over you can kind of see the London Eye before getting to the BT Tower on the far right.)

My First (and, most likely, last) Trip to Colombia Road Flower Market

10:01 PM

It really is one of the most aesthetically pleasing markets ever BUT it was so crowded that it was miserable. I couldn't stop and happily gaze at possible purchases without the wrath of every other person who was trying to get by the stalls. It was squishy and not in a good way.

Let's just say, if I can't get to this market before 9am IF I go again, I'm not going. It's not quite worth my sanity. But almost.

This market is open on Sundays ONLY.
The vendors set up their stalls from 4am!





Fresh in from Amsterdam (insert heart eyes)

FYI I love baby's breath.







Succulents, anyone? I want them all!



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